There are plenty of quirky still wines to choose from, from Bollinger to Timothée Stroebel.

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The only thing you can count on is that Côteaux Champenois still wines are small in quantity, and barely even imported into the United States.They are quirky and delightful; each glass is an exciting little discovery. You really can't know what to expect, except that they will not be bubbled.

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You can taste the passion behind these wines, which are a world away from the sparklers that power the region's economy. Some were multi-vintage wines, like sparkling Champagne, while others were produced from a single year. Below are 11 of my favorites.

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Champagne Louis Roederer 2018 Camille Volibarts ($180)

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There is a slight saline character to this Chardonnay that might make you think of a fine Chablis when you taste it, since it is the first white Côteaux from Roederer’s Hommage à Camille label. Featuring an elegant dance around strong flavors, this wine is a lively combination of ripe apple, toasted almonds, and floral notes, a heavenly match for a wide range of cheese courses.

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Champagne Doyard Côteaux Champenois Blanc En Vieux Fombrés ($90)

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This Chardonnay is a rich, round wine like the best white Burgundy, and it has both the texture and the taste of a top white Burgundy. In addition to the mouth-coating poached-pear flavors that linger forever, it is best left open in the refrigerator overnight for the best taste. A perfect match for any rich sauced white fish dish.

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Marc Hébrart 2016 Côteaux Champenois Blanc Le Leon ($90)

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Hébrart is a Chardonnay made from a distinguished, premier cru single vineyard. It has hints of baked apple and lemon curd in the medium-length finish, and it is an excellent companion to any vegetable-based pasta dish.

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Egly-Ouriet 2018 Côteaux Champenois Ambonnay Rouge Cuvée des Grands Côtés ($225)

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In spite of the fact that this broad-shouldered Pinot Noir has several gears and needs a few years of cellar maturation to fully pull itself together before opening, it is a wonderful example of Côteaux wine: intensely spiced, with a ripe cherry core and a long finish. It would be ideal to serve it with duck with a fruit sauce once it is ready.

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Charles Heidsieck Côteaux Champenois Ambonnay Rouge ($114)

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In the same way that Champagne Charlie's flagship bubbly is well-tailored and self-possessed, this Pinot Noir is a medium-bodied wine with lots of red fruit, cinnamon and violet notes, and a touch of coffee bean that succeeds on its own terms. The wine should be allowed to open for an hour after decanting, and it should be paired with salmon.

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Timothée Stroebel 2017 Côteaux Champenois Le Vin Tranquille Rosé de Saignée ($99)

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It is rare for 100% Pinot Meunier wines to be produced outside of Champagne, where it serves as a blending partner alongside Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The wine's acidity is racy and transports you to a strawberry patch in June while its lively acidity reminds you of a unicorn munching on a four-leaf clover. While technically not technically a rosé, it's technically a light red, with its racy acidity.

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Benoit Déhu Côteaux Champenois Rouge ($95)

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Violette, a horse named after the biodynamic vineyard, has played a major role in the cultivation of this 100% Pinot Meunier grape. It is no accident that violet aromas are included in this early tannin wine. Serve it with squab after it has opened up; it has several spices, as well as ripe plums.

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Bérêche et Fils 2018 Côteaux Champenois Les Montées ($100)

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A deep and rich Pinot Noir that has been barrel-aged with a distinct coconut taste, but that doesn't mask the cherry and plum flavors that it has to offer. In a couple of years, it will probably be better, with three quarters Pinot Noir and one quarter Pinot Meunier, which will allow you to bring out the pork loin.

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Bollinger 2015 Côteaux Champenois La Côte Aux Enfants ($155)

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It is worth the price of the bottle just for the nose of this wine, which reminds me of cherry trees growing in a shady wood. It is an amazingly evocative aroma of a great Pinot Noir and it demonstrates the great quality of its Grand Cru site in the Aÿ region of Champagne. It is a delightful combination of freshness, fruitiness, and class. This wine would make a great match with lamb, normally the specialty of Bordeaux, but try giving it a few hours in a decanter to allow it to evolve.