Chef Mauro Colagreco's New French Riviera Restaurant, Ceto
Ceto is a "marine culinary workshop" located on the cliffside in the Maybourne Riviera hotel.
It has always been Mauro Colagreco's dream to own a cliffside hotel on the Côte d'Azur since he arrived in the 2000s. Originally the Vista Palace, the exemplary hotel was purchased and remodeled by the Maybourne Hotel Group in the early 2000s. It has now been known as the Maybourne Riviera Hotel and is situated on the top of a rocky peninsula above the town of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin. Mauro always thought that this location would be ideal for establishing a restaurant.
In 2015, Colagreco's newest hotel, Ceto, opened. Set in a stunning location with breathtaking views of the Mediterranean, Ceto is the hotel's flagship location.
Ceto is more focused on the water below than his nearby Michelin three-star Mirazur, which combines ocean, mountain and garden experiences. For a menu that takes an exceptionally deep dive into what the sea has to offer, Colagreco partnered with the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco to research sustainable, seasonal fishing for a menu more than just a restaurant, more like a marine culinary workshop.
The new restaurant's maturation chamber was created by Colagreco after he traveled to several countries, including Japan, where he learned traditional techniques for maturing fish. It's one of the only chambers built to mature fish with such precision, he says, adding "even I didn't believe we could accomplish it that way."
There is a grill in the kitchen, which is inspired by the chef's native Argentina and holidays spent eating grilled sardines on the beach. This adds a touch of summer to the menu. Among the dishes served at the restaurant are sea bass with grilled leeks and ajo verde sauce, but the menu also offers a variety of less-known ingredients, including sea fennel, sea herbs and seaweed, a combination of which are combined to create an unexpected mille- feuille dessert with notes of toffee and vanilla.
The goal of Colagreco is to show diners that our oceans are more diverse than just fish and shellfish when it comes to food. As a chef, it is much more enjoyable to work with a wider palette, to express all the tastes and textures of the sea,” he says, “but we can help people respect and value the ocean by educating them about its diversity. As a source of food, the ocean is extremely rich, but it can only be maintained if we take care of it.”